SIL Bamako

I haven't done too much venturing out, but Saturday night I finally  saw the Niger River from the rooftop of the SIL Center where we had a potluck dinner with about 20 or so people.  I'm not sure what the occasion was, but the location was superb, for as the sun went down the lights below lit up the horizon. As you can see the sky is hazy with the dust from the Harmattan, that wind from the Sahel that picks up at this time of year.

the Niger River just before dusk

and here it is after the sun has set

Below is a video-clip of the horizon:

 Sunday I attended a local church where Dan, his wife, and a few others go. It was quite an experience. It began with much singing from the choir, then more singing in French and Bambara which went on at length, followed by preaching by the guest speaker in French, interpreted phrase by phrase into Bambara. The service seemed interminable, and the preaching style so loud and repetitive that I felt beaten down by the time it was over.  And also relieved...

On the other hand, the introductory music before the service began had been pleasant to listen to, with an almost jazz-like quality, and I tried to add a sound-clip to the blog but was unsuccessful doing so.

Fortunately, the apartment where I am staying is located on the ground level of the building.  Having had to walk up 5 floors to get to the roof for dinner on Saturday made me very thankful for this! It is quite home-y and I am sharing it with two women, Greta, who is American, and  Marianne, who is Swiss. Greta, an African-American from Louisiana works with Songhay speakers and Marianne works with the Soninké language.  In recent years, Greta has had to leave Gao where she was living, and has had to continue her work far from where most of the Songhay speakers are found  since it is too dangerous for outsiders to live in the northeast areas of the country where those speakers predominate.

I've visited a few restaurants. The most curious is the Sleeping Camel, which keeps an extremely low profile. There is no sign outside indicating its presence and the security it tight--you are checked at the door and then enter a locked passage where you are buzzed in.  The decor is funky with a collection of soccer and airline logo tee shirts displayed on a ceiling canopy, a large poster that resembles the Camel cigarette ad, etc., which signal it as a definite ex-pat hangout. There are a few Malian dishes on the menu but the rest looks very American with a variety of burger options.  I understand that the owner is Canadian and his wife is from Mali.

Another favorite restaurant with Lebanese owners is the Amandine with its bakery/patisserie on one side which made it a welcome place for breakfast, tea or desserts. This is definitely located in the wealthier ex-pat section of town, with embassies scattered here and there.  I have been experiencing serious Internet difficulties so will post more photos as I am able.